When in Tokyo
One of the world's biggest cities, Tokyo is a phenomenally busy metropolis that puts London town to shame.
Encompassing the spirit of modern Japan, Tokyo is a mix of quiet tranquillity with the fast pace of consumer culture, or as Lonely Planet describes it, as "hectic madness leavened by the most Zenic of calms". For many first-time visitors to the east, Tokyo can be a daunting and overwhelming introduction, but despite its negative points ? namely ridiculous overcrowding ? it is still held up as a "miracle" of post-war planning and a truly unique travelling experience.
Europeans first discovered the area in the 16th century, when what has now become known as Tokyo was just a small shipping village called Edo. Feudal power struggles inadvertently saw Edo develop into a thriving local powerbase. In 1638 Japan virtually closed its borders to all foreign trade but Edo continued to prosper and by the 17th century was the largest city in the world. Here it became divided, philosophically by status and rank and physically by profession. The legacy of this can still be seen, with certain districts still specialising in specific wares.
In 1853, commodore Matthew Perry's armada of 'black ships' arrived with the demand that Japan re-open its treaty ports. Following the subsequent influx of western influence, the city underwent something of a social revolution. Regime change saw Edo replace Kyoto as the seat of power and it was at this point that it was renamed Tokyo.
The city industrialised rapidly as it entered the 20th century and the lure of industry heralded mass migration into the capital. However, the devastating earthquake of 1923 saw much of the city destroyed and then re-built, only to be destroyed again during World War II. Many historians argue that Tokyo failed to capitalise on its first opportunity for re-building, but when two-fifths of the city was flattened under air raids it did take full advantage of the opportunities to recreate itself.
When it was awarded the Olympics in 1964, modern Tokyo fully came of age and it went on to benefit hugely from the boom years of the 1980s. Although it was hit badly by the bust in the 1990s, many commentators agree that it has now recovered.
Spring is the best time to visit Tokyo, with the weather good and the cherry blossom in full bloom. For travellers unable to make it then, the autumn months are also attractive. The summer can be oppressively muggy and, with 12 million people in the main city, uncomfortable. August can be incredibly hot and torrential rain is not infrequent in June. Winters can also become unpleasantly cold, although are largely bearable providing you dress warmly.
Tokyo benefits from a low crime rate and, although the occasional pickpocket does work at the major festivals, most travellers will enjoy a trouble free jaunt. Having said that, women should look out for the gropers that frequent Japan's commuter trains. If you encounter one it's recommended that you grab the guilty hand and shout "chikan", which means groper.
On this subject, Japanese is one of the most complicated languages in the world and anyone hoping to become fluent on the plane trip over there is set for a major disappointment. With three different writing scripts, it can take years to learn. Having said that, pronunciation is easy and most visitors will be able to pick up the essential travellers' phrases ? just don't bank on being able to understand whatever is said back to you.
With the exception of flights from China, international visitors will fly into Narita, about an hour out of the city. Travellers can get to Tokyo easily by train; either via Japan Railways, private train or the famous bullet trains. The latter are undeniably exciting, but private trains can be a better deal. Alternatively, travellers on a budget can also take the bus, which, with direct routes available, means you don't have the hassle of looking out for the correct stop.
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Introduction
