When in Sofia
Sofia is a city on the up and is bracing itself for increased tourist traffic now that it has joined the EU.
The city was founded by the Romans in AD 29 and had become a major destination by the third century, with signs of the Romans still in evidence thanks to the St George Rotunda. The Bulgar king arrived in AD 809, before the Byzantines got their hands on the city during the 11th century. The Ottomans then captured and held on to it from 1382 until the Bulgarians claimed independence as part of the Russian-Turkish War between 1877 and 1878.
Siding with the Axis powers during World War II was a major mistake, resulting in mass bombings and much of the city's heritage being destroyed. "Liberation" by the Russians in 1944 left the legacy of communism and communist architecture; the former collapsing in 1989, with the latter still in evidence although much of city is increasingly modern. Poverty remains in many places however, as Bulgaria attempts to find its economic feet.
The Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church is one of the key sites in Sofia. Built in the late 19th century as a memorial to the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives fighting for Bulgarian independence during the Russian-Turkish War. This awe-inspiring edifice was built in the neo-Byzantine style and among its many treasures contains 1000-year-old religious icons in the Aleksander Nevski Crypt. The church's name comes from the patron saint of Russian Tsar Alexander II's family, who was the man behind its construction.
Another ecclesiastical building of particular note is the Sveta Nedelya Cathedral, which was built between 1856 and 1863 and then partly destroyed in a failed communist attempt to assassinate Tsar Boris III in 1925, which killed 120 people. It houses a wonderful array of murals and visitors are welcome to attend services, with those on Thursday mornings seeing the congregation receive a blessing against black magic.
Those who wish to get to grips with Bulgarian history should head to the Buyuk Djami, or Great Mosque. Built in the 15th century, it is now home to the Archaeological Museum, which contains various works of art, pottery, jewellery and tools dating back from the Thracians and Romans to more recent times.
A good number of international flights service Sofia's airport, just eight miles south-east of the city centre. The number 30 minibus will you deliver you quickly in to town, while the 84 bus will get you there at a more leisurely pace.
The new central bus station on Maria Luisa offers journeys to a variety of domestic towns as well a number of international destinations such as Greece and Romania. Next door is the main train station, which is less user friendly although it too offers a range of local and international options.
There are a huge range of transport options once you get in to town, with buses, trams, trolleybuses and a metro service all operating between 05:30 and 23:00. The roads in the city centre are usually extremely busy, making overground travel an often lengthy business.
It can be freezing during December and January, making for difficult sightseeing conditions, while July and August are hot but not unbearably so, with temperatures rarely reaching 30C.
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Introduction
