When in Seoul
Seoul's fine array of skyscrapers is matched by a huge number of traditional Korean houses and plenty in the way of cultural offerings, making it a wonderfully diverse and intriguing place to visit. The city saw invasions by the Mongols, the Japanese and the Manchus in its time under the Joseon dynasty, from 1392 to1910, perhaps explaining why it withdrew in to itself from the mid 17th century, with the Hermit Kingdom only reappearing due to the Japanese invasion of 1894 and the arrival of Christianity.
The city is famed for its palaces and rightly so. A visit to the Changdeokgung garden and palace is a must. The buildings are laid out to the Confucian demands of harmony with nature and simplicity. Built in the early 15th century, it was the main centre of governance in Korea between 1618 and 1896 and is truly wondrous. However, the secret garden attached to the complex is even more compelling, with lily ponds, pavilions and numerous nooks and crannies making for a remarkably tranquil atmosphere. Visitors can only see the buildings and grounds as part of a tour and there are normally three English-speaking walks a day.
Another fine palace to visit is the Gyeongbok Palace. Widely regarded as the city's premier palace, it was built by the founder of the Joseon dynasty, Lee Sung-gye, in the late 14th century before being burnt by Japanese invaders in 1592. It lay in ruins until 1865, when a major rebuilding project began.
Those looking to gain a further insight in to the architecture of the Joseon dynasty should head to Namsangol Hanok Village, where five houses from different eras have been relocated to give visitors a view of the simple yet stylish architecture that embodies Confucian thinking.
Visitors wishing to gain an overview of the city should head to the N'Seoul Tower on the top of Mount Namsan, some 480 metres above sea level. The Namsan cable car gets you within an easy walk of the tower.
International flights arrive from all over the world at Incheon International Airport, which is 35 miles from the city centre. Share taxis are common and a safe and decently priced way of making it downtown.
International buses are not possible but there a huge range of buses that cross the country. The main station is known as the Express Bus Station, which can be found to the south of the Han river.
Getting around the country is also possible via the Korea National Railroad (KNR), which runs to a variety of major towns and cities in South Korea.
Seoul's streets are notoriously busy, making overground transport an anxiety-provoking experience. Far better to head underground and zip around on the city's fine metro system, which is cheap and safe. Do avoid the rush hour periods however, which can be both daunting and suffocating.
Temperatures fluctuate from icily cold between November and February to boiling in July and August, when average temperatures regularly reach 30C. July is also monsoon time, although those arriving in June and August should also expect to get extremely wet.
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Introduction
