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When in Sarajevo
The city of Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina has physically recovered from the battle scars of the 1990s even if the people haven't. More than 10,000 Sarajevans died and over 50,000 were injured in the Yugoslav conflict and a visit to the city is impossible without contemplating the legacy of the wars for its citizens.
Tourists are returning to the city in large numbers and Serejevo today makes for a beautiful if sometimes haunting visit.
The Tunnel Museum is a good starting point for those eager to learn more about the recent conflicts. The tunnel was the only source of entry for people and goods in to the city from Sarajevo's airport. Most of the 800 metre tunnel is now collapsed but there is still enough to give visitors a feel for what it was like. The house from where the tunnel secretly began has a small collection of photos and digging equipment.
Those wishing to look further back and investigate the early history of the city and its proud boast as a melting pot for different cultures throughout the ages should head to the National Museum. A range of exhibits through the ages is on show, with some fine archaeological pieces among the highlights of the exhibition.
The Turkish quarter is also well worth strolling around, with its cobbled streets and mosques providing a further reminder of the multicultural city that Sarajevo was and still is.
The Sebilj fountain is one of the city's most famous landmarks although the one standing today is not the original as it only dates back to the late 19th century. However, from the surrounding square there are a huge number of lanes and courtyards to explore, making for a fascinating and bewildering walking tour.
Lastly, take a stroll around the city's surrounding hills and gaze down on just what a beautiful city Sarajevo is. It may be best to join a tour as there are still thought to be a large number of unexploded mines in the hills around the city.
Sarajevo airport receives a number of daily flights from various European cities and is just a short taxi ride in to the city. Those wishing to arrive by train can do so via international services from Zagreb and Budapest, while the Croatian city of Ploce is also well connected.
Buses arrive at the main bus station on Put ?ivota, with good services from the Croatian cities of Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. The smaller Lukavica station offers buses to Belgrade, Podgorica and Banja Luka.
Getting around town is easy thanks to the simple to negotiate tram service, with buses and trolleybuses also an option. It is important to buy a ticket from a kiosk beforehand and then punch the ticket once on board.
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