When in San Salvador
Founded in 1552, El Salvador's capital San Salvador is off the beaten track but those who make the effort to visit this smoggy city will be well rewarded. Many tourists are put off by memories of the 12-year civil war, which began following the assassination of Archbishop Romero in 1980. Earthquakes prove more of a danger today in the country, and the last major quake to take place killed thousands in 2001. Away from the city, there are many volcanoes to explore and a number of beautiful beaches, but the slowly improving capital must be seen, if only to get a feel of how impoverished the country still is.
The Catedral Metropolitana is one of the key spots on San Salvador's tourist trail and lies at the very centre of the city's grid system. This large edifice, which has a spectacular yellow and blue dome, was completed in 1999 after the original burnt down in 1956. Painter Fernando Llort is responsible for the intricate motifs on the outside. Below lies the tomb of Archbishop Romero and on the Calle de Mediterraneo is a museum dedicated to the martyr. The museum is interesting and is also the spot where six Jesuits were killed in their sleep by the military in 1989. They are buried in a small chapel nearby.
The Museo Nacional de Antropología David J Guzmán on Avenue La Revolución is one of the city's top museums and houses many of the major archaeological finds of the country. The museum's garden houses a number of prehistoric rock carvings but those without a good knowledge of Spanish will have difficulty in understanding what they are looking at.
Just seven miles from town is the 1,200-metre rock formation of Puerta del Diablo. A drive or a hike to the top is well worth it for the spectacular views of the city and surrounding country, while nine miles south of the capital is the village of Panchimalco, where Pancho Indians attempt to live according to their old traditions.
San Salvador's airport is one of Central America's main hubs, meaning there are a number of options for international travellers. For long distance buses, there are three main terminals. Head to Terminal de Oriente on the eastern side of the city for buses to the east and north, while those going west need the Terminal de Occidente. Terminal del Sur visits destinations in the south and south-east.
Getting around San Salvador is straightforward thanks to its extensive bus network although the city's traffic problems may often mean it's faster to walk. Taxis are everywhere, but a price must be negotiated before getting in.
May to October is generally wet, although usually only at night, while the dry season runs from November to April. The city is hot all year round, with maximum daytime temperatures varying between 27¬°¬C in November to 30°C in April. The nights are sticky too.
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Introduction
