When in Marseille
Those turning up at Marseilles' railway station, finding themselves in the red light district and promptly getting the next train to Nice, will be making a big mistake. France's oldest city has much to offer the visitor and the unseemlier side of the city is fast being erased, replaced by a thoroughly modern metropolis.
Marseilles is famed for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, which is brought about, in the main, due to the city's last North African population - one of the city's most famous residents, footballer Zenedine Zidane, is of Algerian descent.
The city was founded around 2,600 years ago by the Greeks of Phoecaea and is home to an impressive array of classical remains. It also boasts a number of fine beaches, which is an important consideration as the weather can get extremely warm in the summer months and tramping around town can be a sweaty experience.
Keen fans of Roman history must head to the Musée d'Histoire de Marseilles just to the north of La Canebière. A third century merchant ship is among the highlights, as are the many ruins dotted around outside the museum.
The Chateau d'If, which is just a short ferry ride from the old port, is home to a 16th century fortress and prison and is famously depicted in Alexandre Dumas' classic novel, the Count of Monte Cristo. Notable residents of the prison have included the 19th century revolutionary Mirabeau.
The 12th century Abbaye St Victor, which overlooks the old port, is a fine sight. It is home to a large number of martyrs and includes the tomb of St Victor himself. If possible, try to arrive for the famous February 2nd procession, which sees the abbey's statue of the Black Virgin carried through the streets of the city.
Modern art lovers should try the Musée d'Art Contemporain on the avenue de Haïfa, which contains works by a number of French artists, including Marseille's César and Nice's Ben and Klein. Andy Warhol also puts in an appearance.
The Marseilles-Provence international airport is 17 miles north-west of the city and welcomes flights from around 80 European and inter-continental cities, with Paris just an hour and 15 minutes away.
Trains in France are wonderfully efficient, with the TGV services speeding you in to the city from all over the country in double-quick time. Paris is only three away thanks to the TGV Méditerranée line. There are also good links with others countries, notably Spain and Italy.
Buses serve a huge variety of European destinations, including Scandinavia. There are also daily services to Morocco. Buses around the country itself are limited and trains are generally the best option.
If you fancy getting to North Africa under your own steam, there are also regular ferries to Tunisia and Algeria, as well as Corsica and Sardinia.
The city's two subway lines should get the majority of visitors to anywhere they need to go. If not, there is an extensive bus network.
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