When in Kiev
Kiev is nothing if not resilient. Established in the 5th century, it has survived Mongol invasions, numerous fires and World War II. Kiev was the epicentre of the Kyivan Rus super state, which thrived between the 9th and 11th centuries and although now superseded by its Russian neighbours, the city still has signs of the great importance it once held. The break up of the USSR brought a huge upheaval to Kiev and the city is still in a state of flux, although 2004's Orange Revolution may have brought peace for now.
The Caves Monastery on vul Sichnevoho Povstannya is a must for any visitor but they will not be alone, as hundreds of Orthodox Christians visit here every day. The monastery's wonderful setting above the Dnipro River and its many golden-topped churches are a delight to behold. A particular treat is the opportunity to explore the passageways beneath the monastery that contain many mummified monks.
Those wishing to carry on the ecclesiastical theme should head back down in to the city centre to St Sophia's Cathedral on Sofiysky Sobor. It is the city's oldest remaining church and was built in the 11th century to celebrate Prince Yaroslav's victory over local raiders. The majority of the frescoes and mosaics date back to its inception and the 18th century baroque additions were sympathetically done.
The horror of the 1986 Chernobyl disaster is superbly conveyed in the harrowing but enlightening Chernobyl Museum on Prov Khoryva. Numerous photos of the area and people both before and after the event, as well as radiation graphs and identity cards, pay due respect to the many lives lost and the heroism of those caught up in the disaster.
The majority of international flights arrive at Kyiv Boryspil airport - around 25 miles east of the city. A 45-minute Atass bus will get you in to town. Domestic flights and some from other parts of eastern Europe come in to Zhulyany airport, seven miles west of the city.
Although there are numerous bus stations it is easiest to leave or arrive from Tsentralny avtovokzal, the central station. Various domestic and cross-border journeys are possible, with Odessa and Kharkiv particularly well served, although both journeys take slightly over seven hours ? still far faster than the train service.
The city has good train links, with the main station to be found close to Vokzalna metro station. Journeys are not fast but most neighbouring countries can be reached easily, including Russia, Belarus, Hungary, Poland, Romania and Slovakia.
Getting around town is easy thanks to the city's extensive metro service, but only if you can read Cyrillic. Buses and trolleybuses abound, with tickets available from both kiosks and the driver.
Visitors arriving from November to March should expect temperatures to be below freezing, meaning seeing the sights can be a chilly experience. Far better to turn up in the summer, when the days are generally in the agreeable mid-20s.
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Introduction
