When in Helsinki
As it swirls eastwards from Helsinki, the Gulf of Finland narrows before pointing like an outstretched finger towards the swampy Russian city of St Petersburg. Such an indicator is not entirely inappropriate for the traveller who is rooted in Finland's intriguing capital ? because this is a city whose identity is layered in a range of influences from both the eastern and western sides of today's Europe.
Helsinki's main railway station is, brilliantly, outwardly designed in the manner of an old wireless. It is thus not difficult to tune into the fact that this is a city in which individuality and expressivity thrive; for a superb taste of this, the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art on Mannerheiminaukio ? whose glassy, angular design raised more than a few eyebrows upon its construction ? provides one of Europe's best modern art experiences, with artists of local and international renown exhibiting a peerless range of innovative and often frankly puzzling works.
The city's spacious, easily-navigable layout (there are frequent and highly-efficient trams, but it is difficult to resist the chance to explore by foot) lends itself to freedom and recreation ? and its numerous parks, such as the centrally-located Kaivohuisto Park and the slightly northward Botanical Gardens, facilitate this perfectly. Summertime ? probably the ideal time for the traveller to visit, as Helsinki is plunged into near-darkness come winter ? sees the green areas and nearby cafes thronged with sun-seeking locals and visitors.
Nightlife in Helsinki can thrill and bewitch all year round, but when the lights are turned down low the summer restaurant and nightclub of Kaivohuone is especially worth visiting. Its outstanding park location, outdoor terrace and dancefloor swimming pool ? not to mention its regular revolving door of celebrities ? make it the place to be of a weekend, although it has plenty of competition from other bars and clubs which continue to astound and break the mould for night-time hedonists.
The city's more sober side manages to intoxicate in its own way. The island fortress of Suomenlinna, a short and easy boat ride from the port, was constructed as an important first line of defence by the Swedes in 1748, and is arguably Helsinki's must-see historical attraction. Its stony, severe walls and green, sprawling ramparts serve to present the visitor with an acute feeling of isolation even when the fortress is at its most-visited. As a vestige of the Helsinki that was, and in a sense still is, this UNESCO world heritage site takes some surpassing.
Also not to be missed is the city's Lutheran cathedral, situated within easy reach of the port and the glitzy shops on the main Esplanade street. Built between 1830 and 1852, it is reached by an imposing, sweeping flight of steps ? not uncharacteristic of much of the city's architecture, which can seem strangely vast in scale without lacking in grace. The famous, if somewhat anachronistic, Olympic Stadium is another case in point ? and its observation tower is well worth scaling before a stroll around the adjoining national sports museum.
Helsinki may be outwardly unassuming, but as a rich combination of western and eastern European influences, and a snapshot of times and empires gone by, it makes exciting and instructive visiting.
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Introduction
