When in Amsterdam
Amsterdam has surely earned its reputation as one of Europe's most notorious yet charming cities, with its infamous red light district and cannabis cafes jostling for space among beautiful canals and museums. True to the Dutch's belief in tolerance, a range of tourists succeed in co-existing in the city, with stag parties intermingling happily with art lovers. Legend has it that Amsterdam was founded when a sea-sick dog jumped ship, with the two fisherman that followed it going on to establish the city. More feasible, however, is the conventional wisdom that says that a settlement developed when the river Amstel was damned in the 13th century and the city evolved from there. Much like Venice, and less exotically Birmingham, the city was founded on a network of canals, 165 to be precise, which split the small, compact urban centre into districts, helping to create a small-town feel in one of northern Europe's most exciting cities. Amsterdam is laid out like a half wheel, with the oldest bit in the middle bounded by the Singel Canal. It is here that you will find the Nes theatre street, a maze of small old fashioned streets, the royal palace at the Dam and the red light district. Three concentric ring canals, the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht, surround the old centre, while moving west visitors will find the Jardaan, a haven for walking, browsing in unusual shops and enjoying some of the city's better bars and restaurants. The main shopping areas can be found on Leidsestraat, Kalverstraat and Nieuwendijk although it is worth exploring many of the smaller shops that are hidden around the city. It is traditional for shops to close on Sundays and Monday mornings, although this tradition is starting to fade. Additionally, many shops and attractions do not open until 10:00am, although this is understandable when it is considered that many of the city's bars and restaurants stay open until 2:00am. Visitors may also wish to explore the clothing and second hand markets scattered near the Opera and City Hall. Amsterdam has a definite outdoor culture, with one advertising slogan proclaiming that while Rome may have more rain, Amsterdam has more outside cafes. As soon as the sun shines both tourists and locals alike hit the pavement cafes, canals and public parks. The Vondlepark is an especially popular attraction during the summer months, although those planning a winter visit shouldn't feel as though they are missing out, as ice-skating along the city's frozen canals is a truly original experience. Being a small city, most places in central Amsterdam are walkable, which has the added benefit of encouraging extra sight-seeing and exploring. Visitors may also consider hiring a bicycle, as Amsterdam could rival Oxford or Cambridge in its enthusiasm for two-wheeled transport. Be warned, however, Dutch bikes traditionally use back-pedalled breaks so anyone apprehensive at that prospect should request conventional hand breaks when ordering a bike. Trams are also reliable, regular and cheap, while buses also encourage tourists to explore outside the city, with The Hague a 50 minute bus ride away and Rotterdam accessible in 40 minutes. Most Amsterdam residents speak English, with French and German speakers also heavily represented. It is advised that English speakers use English rather than attempting to converse in French, German, or worse, bad Dutch: a city's reputation for tolerance can only stretch so far.
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