A Guide to Eating and Drinking in Ankara

Eating and Drinking in Ankara

Ankara is the perfect place to sample traditional Turkish cuisine or enjoy a relaxing drink. Home to a range of venues from cheap, laidback cafés to sophisticated bars, the nightlife in Turkey’s capital may be quieter and less chaotic than Istanbul but it’s certainly no less exciting.

The district of Ulus to the north of the city center is filled with casual workers’ cafés and street stalls which offer inexpensive Turkish cooking and (of course) kebabs. Unlike its counterpart abroad, however, the kebab is both good quality and relatively healthy in Turkey!

In the heart of the city, Kizilay has a cluster of affordable sit-down restaurants, the best of which are on and around Sakarya Caddesi. These tend to serve seafood along with traditional dishes like 'iskender' (spit-cooked sliced lamb) and 'ishkembe' (tripe soup).

Although much of the population is Muslim, Turkey’s drinking laws are relatively relaxed and Ankara becomes lively after dark. During spring and summer, terraces and beer gardens open up on the pavements, adding to the city’s buzz.

Kizilay’s bustling parallel streets are packed with intimate bars serving cheap beer. Heading south from the modern city center, the venues become chic and fashionable. Bayindar, Karanfil and Selanik sokaks are the best places to find more authentic Turkish meyhanes.

To the south of Kizilay, the smart tree-lined streets of Kavakildere cater to wealthy shoppers enjoying the sights of Tunali Hilmi Caddesi, where up-market cafés serve tea during the day and cocktails in the evening.

Ankara’s nightlife revolves around bars rather than clubs and the latter are much less prolific here than in Istanbul. Visitors seeking late parties and live music, however, will find a handful of venues hidden in the narrow streets of Cebeci, the student neighborhood in central Cankaya.

In keeping with the city’s cultured and refined feel, classical tastes are rather better catered to. Ankara is home to the prestigious State Opera and Ballet and the Presidential Symphony Orchestra, as well as the International Ankara Music Festival which is held in May each year.


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