Things to Do in Seville

The Barrio de Santa Cruz may get all the plaudits, but the whole of Seville’s astonishing Old Town (one of the largest in Europe) is crying out to be explored. And the Macarena, for its faded, unexpected glories, is perhaps the most fascinating quarter.

Set back off the lovely Plaza del Museo, this wonderful collection of works by Zurbaran, Velazquez, Ribera and the local boy, Murillo, is housed in the former Covento de la Merced. The building, set around a collection of stunning patios, is worth the (nominal) entrance fee alone.

The Alcazar and the Cathedral (with its stunning minaret, the Giralda) are so big you could barely miss them. And you almost certainly won’t miss them. Tucked away off a scruffy square in the Alfalfa district, the Casa de Pilatos, however, is one of the grandest and most beautiful buildings in a city of palaces.

Avoid at all costs anything that promises a ‘Flamenco show’. But around town (in Triana, La Alfalfa and Santa Catalina) there are a couple of really authentic places. Be prepared to go late, however: nothing really starts happening until after midnight.

Seville has lots of good party spots – the area around the Alameda de Hercules and the Plaza de Alfalfa are packed with bars – but for the most visually impressive night out, hit the bars on and around Calle Betis. On summer nights, particularly, you can join the rest of the crowds of people drinking by the river.