A Guide to Eating and Drinking in Moscow

  Traditional Russian Red Soup

Moscow is constantly changing. Indeed, part of the reason that it’s such a fascinating place to travel is that, not only does it have a dynamic and significant past but its present is also in a permanent state of flux.

And nowhere is this more obvious than in the city's many restaurants, cafés and bars. Although the last remaining cobwebs of communism are yet to be completely blown away, eating and drinking in Moscow has really developed in the last few years.

Nevertheless, the most important thing to remember about – like most things in Moscow, actually – is that those keen to find a real authentic experience should be prepared to take a little rough with the smooth.

As with many destinations around the world, the most obviously visible places are rarely the best: rather than the obvious tourist traps with signs outside, hunt out the little places tucked away in the Beliy Gorod and the Zemlyanoy Gorod (to the north of Kitay-gorod).

Traditional Russian dishes, though fairly plain, tend to be hearty and filling. Meat and potatoes are the main staples, while locals often eat ‘zakuski’, or light bites, (such as herring, boiled potatoes, pickles and black bread) with their vodka.

But it’s Georgian food that really steals the show. Considered by many to be more tasty than local food, dishes like ‘hatchipouri’ (flatbread) or (the more familiar) kebabs are both delicious and Georgian wine is also well regarded.

Although it’s often hard to tell them apart, cafés are typically a better choice for picking up a budget meal than restaurants. In the streets immediately to the north of the Red Square, there are a couple of good places to eat that won’t break the bank.

There are also plenty of fast-food chains (both American and Russian), with the Manezh mall in Kitay-gorod having a couple of excellent options. In the Beliy Gorod, meanwhile, there are some good, cheap fast-food shops off Kuznetskiy most and Tverskaya ulitsa.

Moscow stays open late – almost all night, in fact. Which means that you can come in out of the cold night at any time and eat a warming meal, perhaps washing it down with a couple of Ukrainian honey and pepper vodkas – an excellent way to take the edge off the harsh winters!

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