A Guide to Eating and Drinking in Tallinn

  Hearty Fare in Tallinn

Like so much of Central and Eastern Europe, eating and drinking in Tallinn has been totally overhauled. For a number of years now, it’s been a case of out with the old Soviet blandness, and in with a new wave of international cuisine.

But whether or not this is a good thing for the average backpacker in Tallinn (particularly when it comes to budgets) is open to debate. While it hasn’t caught up with the prices found in many Western European cities, it’s clear that the it's no longer anything like as cheap as it was.

While there are plenty of cafés and restaurants to choose from on and around the busy Raekoja plats, these don’t usually offer the best value or, for that matter, the best food. A little to the east of Raekoja plats, Vene has similarly scenic terrace dining, but at slightly cheaper prices.

But in amongst all the new upmarket eateries, there are still places where you can get a (relatively) cheap meal in Tallinn. These are often cellar bars serving Estonian classics like Baltic herring, beetroot salad and heavy stews, tailor-made for the decidedly chilly winter temperatures.

Running away northwards through the Old Town, there are some affordable places to eat on Pikk. Slightly to the west of the Old Town, meanwhile, Rataskaevu is another street with a couple of options that should be budget-friendly.

Then, of course, there’s always the fast-food option. In Tallinn’s case that means a toss up between (Finland’s finest) Hesburger or the local challenger, Nehatu. Neither is particularly inspiring, but both will do just fine for a bite on the go.

But by far the best way to cut down on the costs of eating out in Tallinn is to go to the market on Keldrimae. Here, along with some intriguing insights into the city’s Soviet past, you can pick up great – and generally really cheap – staples for preparing a meal back at your hostel.

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