A Guide to Eating and Drinking in Buenos Aires

  Mate in Buenos Aires

In a city so driven by eating and drinking, wherever you choose to eat in Buenos Aires, you’re pretty much guaranteed a decent (and affordable) meal.

Argentina has the highest meat consumption per capita of anywhere in the world and is particularly renowned for its infamous steakhouses (‘parrrillas’). But whilst the city’s vegetarian options are few and far between, eating out in the city is by no means all about huge, slavering chunks of beef.

Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan place; to the north of the city, the chic districts of Las Cañitas and Palermo Viejo have all manner of modern international fare. Indeed, due to the large numbers of Italian immigrants who have come to the city over the years, there’s practically a pizza and pasta place tucked around every corner.

What’s more, the Italian population is also responsible for the city’s reputation for great, naturally-made ice-cream. Palermo Viejo, in particular, has grown from its roots as a place of bohemians and intellectuals to become a seriously trendy hangout and gastronomic center. Dozens of bars and restaurants cluster around the main square of Plaza Serrano. The Recoleta, just to the south, is another smart dining district.

To the south of the city, San Telmo and the bohemian La Boca neighborhood are the places to head for when it comes to a slightly cheaper meal in atmospheric surroundings. The ‘bodegones’ (inns) of La Boca, in particular, offer a typical ‘porteño’ dining experience.

An important thing to bear in mind when heading for a night out is that South Americans tend to dine later, with many restaurants not even opening until 20:00 or 20:30 local time. On hot summer nights, it’s quite common for meals to go on until well after midnight.

And it’s then, after a long meal and a couple of drinks, that the city really gets into its stride...

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